Farm & Livestock Fence in Western North Carolina
Board fence, woven wire, no-climb horse mesh and split rail — built for pasture, road frontage and mountain ground.
Farm fence is a different job from yard fence. The runs are longer, the corners carry real tension, and the fence has to work with the animal on the other side of it rather than just mark a line. On top of that, this is Western North Carolina — the pasture rolls, the ground goes to rock, and half the line is in the woods.
We build the whole range: two, three and four board rail along a drive or road frontage, woven wire field fence for cattle and general livestock, 2x4 no-climb mesh for horses, split rail with mesh behind it for a wooded property line, and wire added behind an existing rail fence when the fence you have won't hold what you bought. Corners and ends get braced properly, because a wire fence is only as good as what it pulls against. Farm gates — walk gates, tube gates, and double drive gates wide enough for a tractor or a hay trailer — are part of the same job, and a drive gate can take an operator if you'd rather not get out of the truck.
Our farm work
Farm fence by style
Real Fence Scapes farm and pasture jobs.
Board & rail fence
Two, three and four rail along drives, road frontage and pasture lines. Cross-buck where the look calls for it.
Split rail with mesh
The wooded-lot workhorse. Split rail marks the line, wire behind it holds the dogs and keeps the deer honest.
Woven wire & no-climb
Field fence for cattle and general livestock; 2x4 no-climb mesh where a hoof shouldn't be able to get through.
Farm gates
Tube gates, double drive gates, and openings wide enough for equipment.
Start with what's inside it
What are you fencing in?
The animal picks the fence. Tell us what you're running and the rest of the spec mostly follows.
Horses
- 2x4 no-climb woven mesh — sized so a hoof doesn't get through
- Commonly 48, 60 or 72 in tall
- Often tacked to a two- or three-board fence so it's visible to the horse
- No barbed wire where horses are — it's how horses get cut
- Board fence alone if the horses respect it and you like the look
Cattle
- Woven wire field fence, sized to the herd
- Barbed strand on top where you want the extra deterrent
- Heavy braced corners — cattle lean, and a fence pushes back or it fails
- High-tensile wire on long runs, tensioned properly
Goats & sheep
- Goats are the hardest animal on this page — they climb, push and test everything
- Tighter mesh, low to the ground, no gaps under
- Braced corners matter more, not less
- Tell us it's goats up front; it changes the whole build
Dogs on acreage
- Rail fence with mesh behind it is the common answer
- Mesh sized to the dog, run tight to grade so nothing goes under
- Gates need latches a dog can't nose open
- Keeping dogs and pets in →
Nothing — just the line
- Board or split rail purely to mark a boundary or dress a drive
- No mesh, wider post spacing, lower cost per foot
- Easy to add wire later if the property changes hands or use
Keeping things out
- Deer pressure on gardens and orchards means height, not strength
- Wire extensions above an existing fence line
- Tighter mesh at the bottom for smaller wildlife
- Worth telling us at the walk-through — it changes the height we quote
Spec it out
Wire, posts & bracing
Wire
- Woven wire field fence — spacing graduated, tighter at the bottom
- 2x4 no-climb horse mesh in 48, 60 and 72 in heights
- 12½-gauge is the common wire weight in no-climb mesh
- Class 3 galvanizing or zinc-aluminum coating outlasts standard Class 1
- Barbed strand where it's appropriate — not our recommendation around horses
Posts & rails
- Treated wood line posts, sized to the fence and the animal
- Heavier corner, end and gate posts, set deeper
- Rails fastened to the animal side so pressure pushes into the post
- Steel T-posts where they're the right tool on a long wire run
- Posts set in concrete or tamped, depending on soil and load
Bracing & tension
- H-brace or double H-brace at corners, ends and gate openings
- Braces are what a wire fence pulls against — skip them and the fence goes slack
- Wire stretched and tensioned, not just stapled and hoped
- Deep crimps in good mesh let it run over uneven ground without buckling
- Line follows the ground; low spots get filled rather than bridged
Wire specs above reflect standard livestock-fence product ranges — for example 2x4 no-climb horse mesh in 48, 60 and 72 in heights at 12½ gauge, in Class 3 galvanized or zinc-aluminum finishes. Exact product depends on what we spec for your animals and ground.
The part you use every day
Farm gates & drive access
Gates
- Walk gates, tube gates, and double gates for equipment openings
- Sized so a tractor, a hay trailer or a truck and trailer actually clears
- Gate posts set for gate weight, not fence weight — the most common failure we get called out on
- Latches that work with gloves on and with an animal pushing
- Wood, tube steel or vinyl to match the fence
Automatic drive gates
- Gate operators on farm and drive entrances, wired by our crew
- Keypads, remotes and phone entry so you don't get out of the truck
- Solar power where there's no service at the road
- We also service and repair operators we didn't install
- Gates & gate operators →
Straight answers
Farm fence questions
What does farm fence cost per foot?
It depends more on the ground than the wire. A straight run across open pasture is one number; the same footage through woods, over rock, across a creek or up a bank is another. Corners, gates and braces cost more than straight line, so a property cut into small paddocks prices differently than one long perimeter. We walk it, count the corners and gates, and put it in writing.
Do you clear the fence line?
Depends on the line, and it's one of the things we're looking at when we walk it. Farm lines run through woods more often than not, so some clearing is usually part of the job. Where it goes past brush and saplings — grown-over line, trees that have to come out, stumps sitting where a corner post belongs — we price that at the walk-through and tell you whether it's in the fence number or its own line item.
Either way, you'll know what's included before the work starts.
Do you use barbed wire?
Where it's appropriate — a top strand on a cattle fence, for instance. Around horses we'd recommend against it — it's a known cause of serious injury — and we'd suggest something else anywhere children or dogs are likely to be. If barbed wire is what you want, say so and we'll give you our honest read on whether it fits the job.
Can you add wire to a fence I already have?
Yes, and it's one of the more common calls we get. A three-board fence that was fine for horses doesn't hold a new dog or a goat, and tacking the right mesh to the existing rails is far cheaper than starting over. The catch is that the existing posts and corners have to be sound enough to take the tension — we'll tell you at the walk-through if they aren't.
How do you handle creeks, ravines and rock?
Water crossings get a floodgate or a break in the fence rather than a run that the first heavy rain takes out. Rock means either a rock bit or relocating the post a foot, and which one we do depends on where the line has to hold. Ravines and steep banks get more posts, closer together. None of this is unusual here — it's a big part of why mountain fence costs more per foot than fence in the flatlands.
Do you install electric fence?
We can run permanent electric as part of a farm fence build — usually a hot wire carried on a woven-wire or board line, set up to stay put. We don't do temporary or portable electric setups.
Once his crew arrived, they worked continuously until the job was completed. Also, he was willing to adjust for adding another corner gate without any problem. The fencing was nearly on-the-line, even along a partially wooded section at the rear of the property.